Canterbury J

Canterbury J

The Canterbury J Class model originates from the Christchurch Model Yacht Club in New Zealand in response to the problems the club members were experiencing sailing models with finned keels in weedy conditions, a problem that all model yacht skippers will be very familiar with and the Canterbury design is a practical solution that remains very relevant to current social and racing skippers today. The objective of this original design is for a model with good sailing manners, that can be easily transported, can be made at comparative low cost and that can be raced in a variety of conditions including weed.

The Nottingham version is the same model when built and is recognised as such in the UK but as the hull is not taken from an approved Canterbury mould cannot be raced against other Canterbury's outside the UK. If you intend to race outside the UK then you will need to buy a Canterbury.

The principal difference between the Canterbury and the Nottingham is that the ballast for the Canterbury is external, being bolted up to the bottom of the hull to complete the keel whereas the Nottingham version has the same ballast placed inside the hull, which is now a full moulding. The rudder is also slightly different as the lower rudder pintle is different on the Nottingham version and the Nottingham rudder has a small cut out to accommodate the shape of the pintle.

In other respects the model is the same. The same internal woodwork and deck can be used, also the rigs are the same. Those clubs in the UK that race J will generally adopt the Canterbury Association Rules and a link to these rules is provided on this site.

The build process is slightly different in so far as fitting the ballast externally will require that filler is used to smooth the joint between the ballast and the hull and the hull will then require painting to finish.

This picture shows the ballast, the same for both the Canterbury and the Nottingham 48. The model builder will drill two holes in the bottom of the Canterbury moulding and bolt the ballast up to the hull. The trim weight fits inside the hull and the aluminium strip can be used to support a lifting handle on the deck.

I suggest that a layer of filler is applied to the bottom of the hull and which will be squeezed out as the bolts are tightened, this should avoid any air pockets.