The starting point for the"J" Class model is fibreglass hull finished in white gel coat, a cast ballast weight and an additional trim weight which is either fitted inside a full hull (The Nottingham version) or fitted outside a short hull, completing the J shape (The Canterbury version). Whichever version you select will result in the same finished yacht. To supplement the basic kit I have developed additional kits and the build is supported by a comprehensive build manual. The additional packages are designed to help create a model which is satisfying to build and with a satisfying end result. There is nevertheless sufficient flexibility to produce a personalised model, with your individual stamp upon it. The hull, together with the additional packages will be sufficient to complete the boat to deck level.
Comparison pictures of the full keeled Nottingham and short keeled Canterbury versions of the J Class model
To complete the model, a deck fittings kits designed three different sail rigs are available from Peter Wiles of P.J.Sails. www.pjsails.co.uk
The three different rigs are designed to suit different wind conditions. The "A" rig has the greatest square footage and is better suited to more sheltered sailing conditions, the "B" rig is slightly smaller, about 80% of the "A" rig, and is better suited to more open sailing conditions where the prevailing winds are stronger. If conditions determin that a "C" rig is appropriate it`s probably time to retreat to the pub...
a) The "J" Class hull has the flash lines removed and is polished. The hull carries its own personal identity number and will be identified as either the Canterbury or Nottingham variant. The Nottingham version, with the full hull does not need painting but I anticipate that the purchaser of the Canterbury version is likely to paint the hull to create his own colour scheme. The gel coat pigments currently available are a bright red, yacht green, bright blue and oxford blue, black, yellow and of course traditional white. The colours have a rich vibrant tone and deciding which colour you prefer is likely to be your hardest decision.
I anticipate that the hull will be purchased with the moulded ballast weight and trim weight to conform to the Canterbury rules but if the boat is not to be built for racing, the ballast is a separate pack that doesn't have to be ordered with the hull and you can use your own method of ballasting if you wish.
b) Rudder package. This consists of moulded rudder (normally in a white gel coat finish), upper bush and tube, and lower pivot. The lower pivot is in aluminium and will need final shaping and polishing whilst the upper bush is in machined brass. The rudder is designed to be watertight and can be subsequently be removed for repair and servicing as required. This is designed specifically for the Nottingham variant and can be re-engineered to suit the Canterbury (the shape is the same) but it may be easier to start from scratch if you are buying a Canterbury.
c) Below Decks Wood package. This contains the inner beams, servo trays and other wood parts needed to bring the boat up to deck level. Also included in the pack is a stand. The parts are laser cut from a 6mm sheet of laser ply and also provided is the oval aluminium mast tube and the necessary brass screws. (Small brass screws are strangely difficult to find!) Where the bracings and beams are visible with the hatches removed the wood includes a laser cut detail for interest and overall finish.
d) The Deck. This is 1.6mm birch ply with king plank, deck planking and hatch detail, laser etched into the surface. The hatch openings mirror the Below Decks package. There should be sufficient material left over from the Below Decks pack and the Deck pack to complete deck hatches and other detail you want to add for that personalised finish!
e) Build Manual. The up to date instructions for building the hull are available on this website but I will also provide a hard copy. Some changes to these instructions are to be expected from time to time as I receive feedback from purchasers so it makes sense to check the web site regularily for updated versions. You can also always email me with questions you might have as your build progresses.